When we touched down in Vietnam and ended up being ripped off by the locals three times within as many hours, I feared that this country was not going to be a good as I thought. We'd heard a lot of people say the locals are greedy and not very nice, and after our few days in Hanoi I had to agree as we'd met more bad than good! However, in the week and a half since we left Hanoi we've found everyone to be much friendlier so I've managed to enjoy the country a lot more.
Another down-side to Hanoi was the traffic! The city is full of tiny little streets packed with motorbikes coming at you from all angles - I'm surprised we made it out uninjured! The rule is just to step out into the road and walk very slowly at a steady pace and the motorbikes will just swerve to avoid you - very scary, especially for someone who (at home) always waits for the green man even when the road is empty!
So from this description you'll be thinking that we had a terrible time in Hanoi and couldn't wait to get out, but we actually had a really good time! During the day we did the usual museums and sightseeing and at night we went out to party as for once we actually had people to do that with
And of course there was our not-very-cultural-or-informative Ha Long Bay tour (ie. the Hanoi Backpackers Rock Long Rock Hard tour) which, despite my reservations, was actually so much fun!
Day 1:
Our flight from Bangkok arrived at 7am but we couldn't check into our hostel until 1pm, so we dumped our bags and went on a walk. The traffic was crazy but we walked around a lot of the Old Quarter of Hanoi, stopping for street food noodles, and then onto the train station so we could buy our overnight train tickets from Ninh Binh to Hue. Stephen's foot had started to hurt after all this walking so we got a taxi back to the hostel and went for a sleep. It was a miracle that we managed to get a reliable metered taxi as when we got into our hostel room there was a notice saying to only get one of two types of cab as the others all have tampered meters! A reliable meter doesn't always mean a reliable driver though, ours drove off without giving us our change!
In the evening we went for dinner at a place recommended in Lonely Planet; it was good but expensive by Vietnam standards. After dinner we just went to bed as we had to be up early for our Ha Long Bay tour the next day.
Day 2:
We were picked up from the hostel at 8am for the 3 hour drive to Ha Long Bay. There was a bit of confusion at the port - there was supposed to be two separate boats but someone had allocated nearly all the girls to one boat and all the boys to another. In the end the guides decided that they would tether both the boats together (something they're not allowed to do any more!) and all the partying would be done together on the big boat.
We boarded our boat (the bigger one) and all gathered on the top deck to hear the rules of the boat. There were only two:
1. Don't jump off the boat unless you're told you're allowed to.
2. Never ever drink with your right hand, if you do someone can shout 'buffalo' at you and then you have to down your drink and buy another.
The second rule should have been fine for us as we're both left-handed, but Stephen did have some trouble!
We had a delicious lunch (Stephen got buffaloed), got shown to our cabins which were nicer than expected, and then went kayaking around the bay to a cave (Stephen got buffaloed again). The scenery was amazing, unlike anything we've seen before! It was a very misty day, which was a bit of a shame, but it did make it look very mysterious.


After kayaking we had a shower and dinner and then were told to go up on the top deck so they could set up for the evening's entertainment,
which turned out to be the biggest game of ring of fire/king's cup ever (42 people in total!).

I'd read a few blogs of people that had done this particular Ha Long Bay trip and it seemed that the game could so either way. As it mainly revolves around people making rules, it depends on the people playing. I was a bit nervous about it at first, but luckily the group of people on our boat weren't too crazy and just made up loads of really funny rules. It was mayhem and so much fun - I ended up having to swap clothes with Stephen and our whole table had to wear our pants on our heads!

After the game was over they cleared the tables and it turned into a bit of a disco. We sat out of the deck talking with people for a while and then went to dance and ended up being some of the last to go to bed.
Day 3:
The 7am wake up call by an angry Vietnamese man was not fun! After breakfast most of the people on the boat left (as there was an option for a 3 day cruise with one night spent on an island) apart from us and four Canadian girls, and all the people who'd been on the island the night before joined us on our boat for the cruise back to the harbour. They all looked shattered!
The bus ride back to Hanoi wasn't at bad as I was expecting, it turned in a big game of 'Who Am I?' (where you can only answer the questions with yes or no)
We had dinner at a really cheap cook-it-yourself roadside BBQ, which wasn't the best. I avoided the meat as it looked a bit old and kept getting splattered with cooking oil!

Cooking our dinner
After dinner we went to meet Betty (who we met on Koh Rong) and her boyfriend Mark for drinks. We had a really fun where lots of unexpected things happened. We found a big bunch of blue balloons outside a bar and so walked around the streets giving them to random Vietnamese people (some looked happy, others confused) including these three guys who were playing Hacky Sack with a shuttlecock. They were really good at it, until Betty asked to join in and it all went downhill from there!
We got more drinks at a bar near where they were playing and took it in turns to play. Eventually the Vietnamese guys gave up on us and left, leaving us with their shuttlecock! So we played a bit more between the four of us, but then it got stuck on a roof. Betty came to the rescue though and got it down with a bamboo pole 
Hanoi has a curfew, so at midnight the police came round telling bars to close and people to get off the streets. The bar we were in just told us to come inside and we could carry on drinking in there. They let us behind the bar to serve them all sorts of crazy concoctions!

This photo just about sums up our night!
Day 4:
Today was our cultural day
We walked everywhere (not through choice though, we couldn't find any of the reliable taxis) and saw a lot of stuff. First up was the Temple of Literature, where they taught philosophy and all the degree certificates were carved out on massive stones that are still there. Next was the Army Museum, where we saw lots of tanks, shot down planes and videos on how the Vietnamese beat the French and the Americans. There was a Vietnamese tour group going around in front of us and they clapped and cheered at the end of each video, they're all so proud! We wanted to go to the Ho Chi Minh museum and his mausoleum as well but they were both closed by the time we got there. We took a picture from outside though, the mausoleum looked so imposing:

Ho Chi Minh's Mausoleum
We then saw the One Pillar Pagoda, which is one of the most famous temples in Vietnam even though it's tiny. Stephen bought a funny t-shirt with it on crutches in the evening:

The One Pillar Pagoda

One Pillar Pagoda t-shirt
In the evening we met all the people who had been on our Ha Long Bay tour as they'd just got back from the island. We had a few drinks in our hostel's bar, a few drinks on a street corner bar (at about half the price of the hostel!) and then a few drinks at a club down the road. There was a band, but they stopped playing at midnight and said the police were coming because of the curfew and everybody had to go upstairs. It was so odd! The upstairs was just the same as downstairs but it had blacked out windows and they kept stopping the music every time the police went by. Looking at the building from the outside when we left, you couldn't tell anything was going on in there at all, it looked totally closed! Presumably this happens all around Hanoi and Vietnam - there's always somewhere open if you look hard enough!
Day 5:
We were getting the local bus to our next destination, Ninh Binh, at lunch time so we spent the morning visiting the Hoa Lo Prison. This prison was used by the French when they occupied Vietnam. After this the Vietnamese used it during the American War to hold US pilots. The exhibits were split into two to show both uses of this prison. It was quite amusing how they had made it seem that the French were so terrible to the prisoners, but when the Vietnamese used it for US soldiers it was like a hotel! I'm sure both sides of the story were a bit edited!

The US Pilots translated and made a nice poster of Ho Chi Minh's New Year speech about defeating the 'Yanks'
We met a lot of young people who worked in Hanoi teaching English and they all said living there turns you into a massive drinker, and I could definitely see why after only a few nights there. Time for a rest for a few days I think!
On an unrelated note, we had a KFC for the first time on our travels today and the way the serve it there is verrry different from home:

A real plate, cutlery and glass, and even a little dish for you to put you're sauces it! It is very difficult trying to eat a piece of original recipe chicken with a knife and fork though :P